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Last updated: 30 April 2010 |
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| This page is for comments and user feedback about the "ETX Classic" telescopes. ETX Classic models include the ETX-60/70/80/90/105/125 (EC, AT, BB, Premier Edition). This page also includes comments and feedback of a general nature. Comments on accessories and feedback items appropriate to the ETX-90RA, DSX, and DS models are posted on other pages. If you have any comments, suggestions, questions or answers to questions posed here, e-mail them to me for posting. Please use an appropriate Subject Line on your message per the Site Email Etiquette. Thanks. Remember, tips described on this site may invalidate the warranty on your telescope or accessories. Neither the submitter nor myself are responsible for any damage caused by using any contributed tips. |
Subject: Need a little help! Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 13:24:46 From: Paul W Shanabarger (plshan45@gmail.com) Dear Sir: When I connect my Autostar Remote (ETX 70) to HDBX, I get this message.`` Motor Unit Fault`` The problem that I am having, deals with the HDBx port. I can`t make any connections. I thought about getting a new remote, might solve the problem. Something tells me it`s the HDBX port, that`s giving me the trouble. Do you know anyway of getting this fixed? Thank YouMike here: First, my sincere apologies for not responding sooner. As you have no doubt read on the various Feedback pages on my ETX Site, I typically answer emails very quickly, many times within minutes of their being sent to me. So, it was with considerable unhappiness that I discovered your email from three days ago, deleted UNREAD as SPAM due to the ambiguous and SPAM-like Subject line entry. As discussed on the "Electronic Mail Etiquette and Submittal Guidelines" that I request all Site visitors to read BEFORE sending email to me, emails with out a descriptive Subject or emails with a SPAM-like Subject are likely to be rejected as SPAM and not read. Your email fell into the SPAM bucket. Fortunately, I accidently stumbled upon it. Please accept my apologies for this tardiness. BUT please do read the "Electronic Mail Etiquette and Submittal Guidelines" to avoid this happening in the future. Thanks for understanding. As to your problem, I assume you are using the AutoStar #494 that comes with the ETX-70. Have you changed the batteries with fresh ones? Are they inserted correctly? If the batteries are OK, try unplugging and replugging the HBX cable. That can sometimes cure connection problems. If that doesn't help, check the HBX jack and connector; the pins should be clean and not too depressed nor bent sideways.
Subject: How deep sky objects look in your telescope Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 03:18:41 From: Johnny Landgren (johnny.landgren@telia.com) Just want to tip about a site that might be as useful to many of Your readers as it have been for me. Its named "The Deep Sky Archive" and found on: www.deepsky-archive.com In the archive one can search drawings of more than 5000 observations of deep sky objects submitted by amateur astronomers with varios telescopes. The images give a very good example of what to expect when visually observing different objects thru your telescope. All material is public without registration but if you register you can also upload your own observations right to the database and they will be available for everybody to view immediately. I myself just registered and added some of my first drawingsto the site, all done under observations with my ETX 90. Johnny Landgren Hjorted, Sweden
Subject: ETX70 Focusing Problem - Apr. 26 update Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 00:51:05 From: Ron Harries (rharries@telus.net) I had the exact same problem with my barlow focusing on my ETX80. So, out of frustration, and with no reasonable hope of success, I cranked the focus completely in the other direction. Before I came to the end, the telescope came into perfect focus. Strange. Ron Harries Salmon Arm
Subject: RE: OPT Camera Adapter Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 21:48:04 From: Thomas Lebryk (tlebryk@hotmail.com) Thanks so much for the help!!! If I ever get this to work, I will post it on CloudyNights. It gives me hope that if I remove all the rubber grip material, it might just work. We'll see, the eyepiece is on order. Tom
Subject: OPT Camera Adapter Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 16:09:04 From: Thomas Lebryk (tlebryk@hotmail.com) I saw your small review of the OPT Camera Adapter and pictures and I would like to try it. But I am trying to find out some exact information about it. If you can, please measure the inside diameter in mm's of the main tube that the eyepiece goes into. I am trying to find out which of my eyepieces will fit without having to buy the adapter first. I know this sounds silly, since it is only $20, but I don't want to waste the money! The Owl Astronomy guy named Tom measured the inside of their's and he said "just about 38mm". It seems the OPT might be the same manufacturer? The design looks identical. Also, I recently purchased a Nikon Fieldscope eyepiece at a huge discount and have been looking for a way to create my own housing for this non-standard eyepiece which is approximately 39mm at the largest diameter. Would you have time to do this??? Thanks for any help. TomMike here: Yes, not all eyepieces will fit inside "eyepiece projection" adapters. Especially those with larger barrels or rubber grips. The OPT adapter accepts 1.25" eyepieces but I will have to go out to the observatory to measure the I.D. Just measured it. The adapter measures 30mm to accept the 1.25" eyepiece tube. However, the adapter will only accept eyepieces with barrels up to 38mm in diameter (and that would be a tight fit).
Subject: ETX forum Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 19:44:55 From: Andy & Leah Lancour (smanj440@sbcglobal.net) Hi Mike, what do you think of having a forum for ETX owners on your site? You could be the moderator, and many of the members could probably answer a lot of the questions that come up, taking some heat off of you.Mike here: This is addressed on the Site Guide (on the ETX Site home page). There is the ETXAstro Yahoo Group for those who want to submit questions there.
Subject: ETX-70 Focus Issue Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 03:15:41 From: Rick Shelton (rshelt1964@yahoo.com) I have a ETX-70, one of the older models, the autostar plugs into the base like the ETX-90. Anyway, I can achieve focus using the supplied 20 mm and 9mm eyepiece fine, but when i use the 2x barlow the focuser bottoms out while turning clockwise and never reaches focus. It also doesnt reach focus using a back cell adapter and tring for my camera as well. Is there something I can do to correct this? The Barlow is the "Series 4000 #126 2x Short-Focus" barlow...... Thanks Rick
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Hi Mike thanks for the reply, I have since checked the barlow in a 130 reflector and it works fine using either eyepiece. I wonder, can the tube that holds the Obj lens be adjusted? It only needs to come in toward the arms a 1/2 or less im guessing to achieve focus. Thanks again. RickMike here: Well, the focus shaft connection can not be easily changed. It would take some major surgery and you'd run the risk of making things worse. One thought: is the Barlow Lens full seated in the eyepiece hole? Or perhaps NOT fully seating it would help focus.
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I also have a DSLR and using a T-ring adapter and rear cell adapter it also doesnt focus, and using a 1 1/4 eyepiece adapter in the regular eyepiece it doesnt either... the obj lens looks as if it has never been damaged in any way, it just while turning clockwise (shortening the tube) it quirts turning just before focus... Everything is seated fine. is there a stop on the focus shaft or does the obj lens bottom out against something? Thanks, RickMike here: The objective lens housing moves from one end of the focus range to the other. I suppose there could be a burr or some obstruction preventing it from moving the full range. The articles "ETX-70AT Repair Guide" and "ETX-70 Focus Knob Fix" on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page might help.
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Thanks again for the tips, will dig around some more on your site, which is excellent btw,,, Take care Rick
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Mike, just had a brainstorm, lol not much of a storm maybe a lt drizzle. Anyway you have the same scope as me I think, the 70 with the autostar that plugs into the base correct? If so I turned the focuser all the way clockwise to where it stops and the shortest that my scope would be. It measures 10 and 5/8 inches (see attached pic) can you measure your scope and see if its the same? Thanks, Rick
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Well that sounds like the culprit, cause it is almost at focus and the extra 1/2" would be enough to reach focus. Thanks for the help, now I know where the problem is. Sorry about the mixup on the scope, yeah mine is just like the etx-90 base with the power supply connection and extra aux port. It also came with the #497 controller and instead of the MA25mm eyepiece it came with a SP20mm. I think meade went the cheap route with the newer 70at's after this one. Thanks again for your time, it is very much appreciated. Rick
And an update:
Hey Mike, just wanted to update you on the scope, after getting the rear housing off (which was a pain) and removing everything I noticed a c-clip on the threaded rod that keeps the rod from going to far. Well it was about a 1/2 inch from the end of the threads so I removed it and put everything back together and now I can focus with any eyepiece and barlow combination. That c-clip isnt necessary cause the rod will only turn so far anyway. Thanks again for your help... Rick
Subject: [none] Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 13:30:34 From: Randy Bost (randynspokane@yahoo.com) I have read several of your posts about power supplies for the Meade scopes and must say there is quite a bit of info there. The only thing I haven't been able to ascertain is the polarity of the plug that connects to the Computer Control. Can you tell me if the center or tip is positive or negative. Any assistance with this will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Randy BostMike here: First, my sincere apologies for not responding sooner. As you have no doubt read on the various Feedback pages on my ETX Site, I typically answer emails very quickly, many times within minutes of their being sent to me. So, it was with considerable unhappiness that I discovered your email from two days ago, deleted UNREAD as SPAM due to the missing Subject line entry. As discussed on the "Electronic Mail Etiquette and Submittal Guidelines" that I request all Site visitors to read BEFORE sending email to me, emails without a Subject or emails with a SPAM-like Subject are likely to be rejected as SPAM and not read. Your email fell into the SPAM bucket since it had no Subject. Fortunately, I accidently stumbled upon it and so I can now answer your email, tardy though my response it. Please accept my apologies for this tardiness. As to your question, it is answered on the "ETX FAQ" page on the ETX Site home page.
Subject: Re: Auto Focus on ETX125EC not working Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 13:49:44 From: Freda Kraus (fredak@yahoo.com) Bingo, I called Meade and the tech walked me through everything and that is exactly what the problem was, the cog wheel was not tight. Now that it is tight and seated fully onto the shaft it is working fine. Thank you.Mike here: Thought that had to be the culprit!
Subject: Re: Second hand ETX125EC Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 07:36:43 From: Juan Manuel Soares de Lima (jsoaresdelima@tb.inia.org.uy) With my ETX125 I have only a standard 26mm eyepiece and I've decided to buy a 2x Barlow lens. What eyepiece (not too much expensive) will yo recommend me to buy in fist place? And as a second option? Thanks again (and again) Juan ManuelMike here: There are several articles on eyepieces on the Helpful Information: Buyer/New User Tips page. Also, see the Accessory Reviews: Eyepieces page. Keep in mind, the choice of additional eyepieces will depend somewhat on the types of observing you plan to do.
Subject: Auto Focus on ETX125EC not working Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 09:38:41 From: Freda Kraus (fredak@yahoo.com) We purchased a used ETX125EC that came with a Meade 1247 Auto-focuser already attached. After spending some time setting it up and trying to obtain focus we have determined that the auto focus may not be working. We anted to remove it and reinstall the manual knob to see if focus can be obtained. The problem is the original installer did not save the screw that was removed to install the AF unit. So at this point we are stuck, I can't pull the AF as I cannot reinstall the manual system because of the missing screw. I do have the knob at least. Any suggestions as to where and what kind of screw I need to locate to get the scope serviceable? Or do you think that there might be something else wrong here? Thank youMike here: First, the #1247 is not an "auto" focuser, it is just a motorized focus mechanism. As the setscrew for the manual focus knob, I don't have size but you can use almost any small knob as a replacement. Check your local hardware or Radio Shack store. Word of caution: when you remove the #1247 focuser, be certain to keep the telescope tube pointed upwards. Otherwise, you run the risk of the focus shaft slipping inside the telescope tube and you really don't want that to happen. As to what might be wrong with the focuser unit, which controller are you using to run the focus motor?
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Thanks for the prompt reply. I did read someplace that it was very important to keep the scope pointed up to avoid the mechanism from dropping into the tube, so we are ok there. I managed to get the unit off, it seems to be working fine the gears are all metal. I did look into the unit once it was off to be sure that the motor was infact turning the gears, which it is. With the unit off I tried manual focus still nothing comes into focus. When I look down the open eyepiece hole the image is in view it just is not reflecting up into the eyepiece. As for which hand held we were using, I actually tried all 3, the one that obviously goes to the focus motor, the regular handheld ( with the 4 lights) and the autostar hand held. With each one I can hear the motor running which tells me that there is communication. It is entirely possible that I might be doing something wrong or overlooking something obvious, that is always a possibility.Mike here: It sounds like electric focuser is working properly. If the light is not coming up into the eyepiece hole, is the flip mirror at the rear telescope set properly? It flips to reflect light to the top-mounted eyepiece or out through the rear port.
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The flip mirror is the first thing I checked. When I said that it was not reflecting into the eye piece I guess what I was trying to describe was that I saw an image in the tube hole but the image could not be focused in the eyepiece ( plossl 26mm nor the 40mm). I also tried the rear camera port flipping the mirror to sent the image to the rear port, still no focus can be achieved. When we tried it outside we could see colors ( grass green) is it perhaps that we tried focusing on something only 100 feet away? Is there something else that we could try to bring it into focus or could the scope be damaged?Mike here: Try focusing on a distance building or tree. Or if you can see the moon tonight, try it.
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Cloudy here tonight so moon is out. Tried trees and a house about 2/10 of a mile. still no change in view still just featureless colorsMike here: If you are still using the electric focuser and have run it fully in both directions, it sounds like the gear is slipping on the focus shaft. Its setscrew could be loose.
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Where is the set screw located? We did try to manually focus but no luck there, but that was just with the gear wheel that is attached to the scope. I know we must sound like idiot's but I am beginning to think it can't be fixed.Mike here: There is (or should be) a small setscrew on the side of the shaft on the gear that is on the focus rod shaft.
Subject: Problems with Auto level on ETX-125PE Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 04:13:01 From: Kevin S. Ladin (kladin@gmail.com) Recently, my beloved ETX-125PE has been malfunctioning. I've noticed that during automatic alignment it doesn't seem to level properly anymore. It gets to just shy of the horizon, both initially and when finding tilt. Thereafter, even though it reads "alignment successful" on my Autostar after centering the two bright stars, it is way off when slewing to objects. I've gone through the procedure to train the drives to no avail. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Sincerely, Kevin LadinMike here: Keep in mind that the OTA may not end up level nor pointing to North at the end of the leveling and north-ing. That said, have you done a CALIBRATE SENSORS? Have you checked the Daylight Saving setting?
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As always, thanks so much, Mike. You are the best!!!! Kevin
Subject: Electric focuser for ETX 80 Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 08:32:02 From: Ron Harries (rharries@telus.net) (Mike, if you object to cross posting please excuse this email. I'm trying to get as much coverage as possible so I posted on the Meade Uncensored Group.) Has anybody tried to motorize the focusing of the ATX 80? I want to try so was wondering if it had been done and there was some information to give me a head start. The 1244 looks like it could be adapted but according to Meade, this is not the case and they had no suggestions for me. As I expected. Thanks Ron HarriesMike here: There are several such articles on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page.
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I've spent most of yesterday trying to find something on your site and other sites. Your are corredt in saying that there are lots of articles relating to ETX scopes but i"ve not been able to fing anything relating to the 80. Sometimes I wonder how rare the ETX 80 is.Mike here: Yeah, not much on focusers for the ETX-80, just these specific articles: "DIY ETX-80 Electric Focuser" and "Electric Focus for ETX-70/80". And of course, several other articles on electrical focusers that you could likely easily adapt for the ETX-80.
Subject: Re: Second hand ETX125EC Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 04:52:39 From: Juan Manuel Soares de Lima (jsoaresdelima@tb.inia.org.uy) Thank you very much, Mike. I fixed the problem. Now I have to clean a little the optics and face that collimation process. Several articles talk about it but I can't find a tutorial or howto from the beginning by now. I'll keep searching... Thanks again, Juan ManuelMike here: See the article "Cleaning Optics" on the Helpful Information: Buyer/New User Tips page. No tutorials but several articles on collimation in the "Star Testing and Collimation" section on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page.
Subject: ETX70 Focus Knob Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 05:24:16 From: Staci Carroll (sunflower.6@hotmail.com) Can you or your community please help...I recently acquired a ETX70 telescope and I am so excited as I am a beginner to the telescope world. My telescope is missing the focus knob and I am desperately seeking one. Does anyone have one to sell or any other suggestions? Thank you!!! Staci :)Mike here: You can likely find a replacement that will work at Radio Shack or your local hardware store.
Subject: Second hand ETX125EC Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 13:47:52 From: Juan Manuel Soares de Lima (jsoaresdelima@tb.inia.org.uy) As I tell on a previous mail, I recently bought a second hand Meade ETX125EC. I can't see anything trough the telescope, I don't know if are missing pieces or something else... I open the telescope but I could not understand how it works. Can you tell me where can I get some diagrams or pictures from inside the telescope?, (number of mirrors, distances between, etc) Thanks a lotMike here: There are various articles on disassembling the ETX on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page. But lets see what might be wrong before you take things apart. When you say you can't see anything, what have you done? I assume you have removed the aperture cover. But what about the flip mirror at the rear of the telescope. What eyepiece are you using? What object have you tried to look at?
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The tube don't have cover lenses, flip mirror is well positioning, adn I can't see any light. When I get the telescope I noted something loose inside the tube. I found the focus knob in the box where the tube comes, so I assume the other parts of the focus mechanism where loose inside. I open the telescope, and as I suppose, I found a piece of metal and a spring. But, what I could not understand was that the circular piece of metal where the focus mechanism should be connected, was screwed on the mirror at a distance higher than the focus mechanism long. I send a draw but with my poor english I'm not sure you can understand. First draw is what i saw and the second is what I suppose to be the mirror so the focus mechanism could reach the circular metal piece where it should be connected. Hope you can understand, thanks
Subject: ETX 125 EC newer version dec. knob/trunion stripped Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 05:32:32 From: Bill McLean (alcodiesel@hotmail.com) I got the knob off. The plastic tab that keeps the trunion from turning in the side arm is broken- the trunion turns. I removed the trunion and am either going to drill it out and run a bolt through it and epoxy it in the side arm or just leave the trunion out and glue in a slightly larger bolt. I'm thinking of a wing nut instead of jury rigging the knob to hold a nut on the outside. Before I do this I want to get your input. Also are after market (possibly metal) parts available? Carpe Noctem Bill McLeanMike here: There used to be a replacement Right Tube Adapter but it is no longer available. You could contact Telescope Warehouse (link on the Astronomy Links page); perhaps they have one. Alternatively, see the article "ETX-90EC DEC fix (Right Tube Adapter repair)" on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page.
Subject: Meade focuser query Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 03:11:00 From: B Stewart (bstewart@syfer.co.uk) My name is Brendan and I am from Norwich, England. Can you help me with a query please? Have looked on the site but cannot locate!! :o( I have a Meade ETX-60 (the rucksack kind!) and saw an extended focuser to replace the knob for sale so, bought it. Seemed like a good idea except there is no grub nut to undo to replace it on my Meade! The knob in question is parallel to the EP and not facing out backwards. Is it possible to undo the knob or is it one unit? Don't want to fiddle too much as a telescope without focus kinda becomes redundant! Hope you can help. Thanks, Brendan.Mike here: I don't have an ETX-60 so don't know how it attaches. Other models have a small setscrew on the side of the focus knob that holds the knob on the focus shaft.
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Thank you. Could you send the link to me too if poss? Cheers, BrendanMike here: It will be on the "ETX, General" feedback page.
Subject: Re:ETX alignment vs. ETX manual (12 Apr 2010) Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 09:33:05 From: mhogansr@comcast.net (mhogansr@comcast.net) For Auto Align, the position of the tripod legs is pretty much irrelevant. As I said in the article, the goal is to have the OTA pointed to the west or slightly southwest when it is in the Home position (fully CCW). The reason is that if the OTA is pointed too close to magnetic north when the Autostar begins to slew the scope searching for magnetic north, the sensor can miss the first null, which is north, and hit a false null at magnetic south. This is especially true when the magnetic declination (deviation) at your location is very large. If you find it convenient to use the tripod legs as an indicator of approximate north, that's fine but it really doesn't matter. Using the OTA as an indicator of correct position applies both with and without a tripod. Regards, Mike Hogan
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From: Ludwig Krijgshaftig (ludwig.krijgshaftig@xs4all.nl) Thanks to both of you for the comprehensive answer. All clear now and it has been a pleasure to use the ETX on my dark site in Brazil. (Auto) Alignment was successful every time. Sometimes I had to repeat it though as the Dec axis slipped when I changed eyepieces (and therefore the balance of the OTA). I am always afraid to tighten it too much and wind up not tightening enough I suppose. Limits of the ETX-125PE have also become clear here. Although many many wonderful objects can be observed, a large number of Messier galaxies in the Virgo galaxy cluster are really not resolved with enough detail to enjoy. Aperture fever lurks... Will try and see those with my 8" LX200R back at home in The Netherlands, but light pollution overthere usually takes away a lot of detail. Kind regards, Ludwig
Subject: Updates Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 13:25:35 From: Brian Roberts (apainta09@googlemail.com) Could you please send your excellent updates to my new address 'apainta09@googlemail.com' ? Many thanks. Regards Brian Roberts.Mike here: Sorry you missed all the announcements back in October and November of last year. Email updates ended. For more information, see:
Subject: Re: ETX 125C Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 10:00:31 From: P. Clay Sherrod (drclay@tcworks.net) You might attempt so high potency bonding glue at the crack. The Alt hard stop DOES break easily if the scope is moved past the stop point, and it can be repaired using a simple 6-32 bolt and nut in the place of the plastic hard stop, nut installed on the outside of the fork arm plate where the "setting circle" resides. It works excellently, but you must position the bolt precisely right so that you can get the scope in a 90 degree orientation for alignment. Dr. Clay _____ Arkansas Sky Observatories MPC H45 - Petit Jean Mountain South MPC H41 - Petit Jean Mountain MPC H43 - Conway West http://www.arksky.org/
From: s lanewala (lanewala2004@yahoo.com) Hi Dr. Clay: Another excellent suggestion! And if I fall flat on two-left-thumbs, then I can always get the other fork mount! Thanks. Saify
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Good plan! Dr. Clay
Subject: Re: ETX 125C Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 14:59:50 From: P. Clay Sherrod (drclay@tcworks.net) Why do you want to remove the fork arms? They cannot be take off the turntable base, since they are permanently bonded to the plastic. You can remove the knob, but to do so will ruin the knob and likely the trunion on the OTA mounting plate. Wedge a large flat blade screwdriver behind the knob flat surface against the fake setting circle and leverage OUT while you turn the knob CCW. Keep working it and it will finally come out. The knob is completely stripped as is likely the trunion receiver threads. Dr. Clay _____ Arkansas Sky Observatories MPC H45 - Petit Jean Mountain South MPC H41 - Petit Jean Mountain MPC H43 - Conway West http://www.arksky.org/ ----- Original Message ----- From: s lanewala (lanewala2004@yahoo.com) Hi Dr. Clay: My ETX 125 right fork clamp was overtightened some time ago and I cannot get it loosened up so I can remove the fork arms... Is there a quick way to get it loosened up? Thanks. SaifyMike here: Saify, are you trying to remove the ETX OTA from the fork arms, or just the Altitude locking knob?
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I wanted to remove the Alt locking knob, but since I couldn'tdo it directly, I thought perhaps I could do it a bit differently. As it turns out, I was able to get the Alt Lock to loosen up, an d come off. But I did notice a few bits of plastic,and it seems like the Alt stop has been sheared off. Also, there seems to be a crack in the base of the right form arm. I guess that means that the fork arm assembly must be replaced Any guidance? Regards, SaifyMike here: You could consider replacing the mount with either another ETX-125 mount or a different mount, like a LXD55/75. If you want to try for a replacement, contact Telescope Warehouse (link on the Astronomy Links page). If you want to see how you could attach the OTA to a different mount, there are some articles on that on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page.
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Thanks! That means I replace everything except for the OTA, yes? I guess the fork arm is integral to the base.. I will read about this on the site. Thanks. Regards, SaifyMike here: Yep, you would remove the OTA from the fork arms.
Subject: EXT 80 Motor Traninig System Need repair Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 00:30:12 From: Ron Harries (rharries@telus.net) Today, when I was trying to install a switch and plug to us external power, my drill went too far in and dislodged the wires to, I believe, the motor training system. These wires come in two sets. One with three wires attached to a black device about 1/4 " square. The other two are attached to a device that is either a LED or some kind of a timing device. They appear to fit where they have the cogs of a gear between them. Is it possible for you to direct me to a place on your web site or any where else that could give me some help. Do The motto of this story in "Do Not Use Dull Drills" Thanks Ron HarriesMike here: Unfortunately, there is no wiring schematic available. If you only cut the wires, can you match the wire colors?
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Unfortunately, I did not cut the wires. I pulled the two small devices that the wires were connected to away from there position on the scope. They appear to be attached with hot glue. However, your answer still applies. Thanks anyway Ron HarriesMike here: See the original email "ETX-125EC won't slew right or left" further down this "ETX, General" feedback page as well as the follow-on messages. There is a photo and some discussion of the encoder.
Subject: 7 X 50mm Finder Sent: Friday, April 9, 2010 17:03:59 From: Russell F. Morrow (russgtr@gmail.com) I'd just like to know your opinion; do you think an Antares 7 X 50mm finder scope, at 18.4 oz, would be too much weight for the motors and gears, etc. of my ETX125AT? Thanks Russ MorrowMike here: I have no experience with that finder or ones of comparable weight. But from the comments from others who had added large finderscopes, it could work if you position it with its CG over the fork arm attachment point.
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OK; thanks very much. Russ Morrow
Subject: Replacement Gear For #1247 focuser? Sent: Friday, April 9, 2010 09:51:58 From: mgatman@fuse.net (mgatman@fuse.net) I am trying to find a replacement spur gear for the 1247 electric focuser as mine broke in half. Unfortunately, when I contacted Meade they could neither provide a replacement nor suggest where to get a replacement. Do you or any of your readers have any idea where to get a replacement? It it the small, 11 tooth gear that attaches directly to the electric motor shaft. Thanks in advance, Mark GatmanMike here: Some possible sources: ScopeStuff.com, Telescope Warehouse (link on the Astronomy Links page), and the article "Replacement Gears source" on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page. Let me know how it goes.
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I will, thank you. Mark
Subject: Meade illuminated reticle Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2010 11:10:02 From: Ludwig Krijgshaftig (ludwig.krijgshaftig@xs4all.nl) In order to do a more accurate job at motor training and finder alignment, I have purchased a Meade 12mm illuminated reticle. Since I did this primarily for my LX200R scope, I chose the wired version of the reticle, which does not use a battery but plugs into the scope terminal. Now I have brought this to my ETX-125PE at my dark site and just noticed that I have been stupid not to go for the wireless (i.e. battery) version of the reticle as the ETX of course does not have a terminal outlet for the reticle. Do you know the voltage used by the LED in this reticle? When I am back home I can measure the output on my LX200, but I am now just curious if I can put 12V on this LED without burning it. Kind regards, LudwigMike here: The wireless model uses two LR44 (or equivalent) button batteries. Typically, about 1.5V each.
Subject: ETX alignment vs. ETX manual Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2010 11:05:51 From: Ludwig Krijgshaftig (ludwig.krijgshaftig@xs4all.nl) My ETX-125PE is currently staying at my dark site in Brazil, at a latitude of about 22 degrees South. Although I am quite familiar and successful with the automatic alignment procedure, I had some doubts on usage in the Southern Hemispere. So, I have once more studied the manual and came up with a number of questions as well as inconsistencies in the manual. The manual I am referring to is titled: Instruction Manual, ETX Premier Edition Telescope Series, AutoStar - LNT - SmartFinder. It has no clear publication date or version number, but the copyright on page 3 states 2009 (which is a bit odd, as I downloaded the softcopy of this manual in October 2008). Mostly the manual indeed describes the ETX PE with LNT, but sometimes I think it still refers to the pre-LNT model. Automatic Alignment on page 17 correctly describes the appropriate home position (full CCW until hard stop) and that the telescope detects true North. It also explains that the home position for Automatic Alignment is different from the home position used with One Star and Two Star Alt/Az alignments. So far, so good. The Autostar Menu map on page 22 lists under Setup - Align the options Easy, One Star and Two Star, while in reality the options are Easy, Automatic, One Star and Two Star. Finally on page 36 under Advanced Alt/Az Alignment the appropriate home position is first described correctly (full CCW until hard stop and then CW until fork above control panel), but then the section on Two Star and Easy Alignment points again to the home position described on page 17 under Automatic Alignment. This is an error in the manual (at least for the PE models with LNT). Then under One Star Alignment on page 37 is stated that the accuracy depends on how close to the North the telescope is pointed when setting the Home position. This is also rather odd (and most likely stems from the manual version for pre-LNT models) as nowhere before or else in the manual instructions are given to point the telescope to the North (except in the Appendix on Polar Alignment). I have read on your wonderful ETX site the alignment instructions that involve pointing the front leg of the tripod (the one opposite the latitude adjustment bar) towards the North, even for Automatic Alignment with LNT. Now my questions: 1. Do I understand correctly that it is best to place the tripod with the front leg pointing to the North, even when operating in Alt/Az and even with the LNT? 2. Does this also apply when operating on the in the Southern Hemispere? 3. What is the difference between Automatic and Easy Alignment? 4. Is Easy Alignment actually useful for LNT models? 5. Why would I use Two Star or One Star alignment on LNT models? Kind regards, LudwigMike here: In Alt/Az mounting, you can attach the ETX in one of two directions, 180 degrees different. So, if you want the leg to be on the other side, no problem, in either hemisphere. Auto Align uses the LNT for leveling and north determination. Once that is done, it proceeds te same as with Easy Align. In non-Auto Align, you are responsible for leveling and pointing the telescope to True North. And yes, Easy, One Star, and Two Star alignment modes are perfectly fine to be used on the LNT models. As to why you would use them, they are just alternatives. One Star mode when in Polar mode can help you align the RA axis to the Earth's rotational axis.
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Thanks for your quick answers to all my three e-mails. Your e-mail handling discipline is quite astounding for me. You must spend a lot of time every day answering all these questions and inquiries, during an awesome fourteen years now. All this ETX related knowledge packed in your ever expanding site is really marvelous. Once more I just want to thank you for pulling all this together. Following your previous answer above, I do have two more questions. > In Alt/Az mounting, you can attach the ETX in one of two directions, 180 > degrees different. So, if you want the leg to be on the other side, no > problem, in either hemisphere. OK, I can point the leg forward or backward, so still pointed either North or South, right? The Mike Hogan article from 5 July 2006 points out that "the physical position of the entire assembly (base, and tripod if applicable) should be oriented so the OTA is pointing in a Westerly direction. The precise angle is not important; the goal is that the OTA be pointing West of the Magnetic North Pole. The reasons are technical and beyond the scope of this procedure." Again, this implies with the OTA in the Auto Align Home position that the front tripod leg points either North or South, right? > In non-Auto Align, you are responsible for leveling and pointing > the telescope to True North. And yes, Easy, One Star, and Two Star > alignment modes are perfectly fine to be used on the LNT models. Finally, is the difference between Easy and Two Star align that the alignment stars are selected automatically or manually? Kind regards, LudwigMike here: In Alt/Az mode, it doesn't matter which tripod leg is on which side of the telescope. The ETX control panel goes on the west side of the tripod. For more on using the ETX in the Southern Hemisphere, see the Helpful Information: AutoStar Info page. And yes, Easy selects the stars, which you can skip if not visible, and 2 Star you get to pick.
Subject: ETX125-AT Lens Cap Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2010 10:47:28 From: Russell F. Morrow (russgtr@gmail.com) The lens cap that came with my ETX125-AT has two spring loaded tabs which kind of stick out. I have a dew shield which I would like to store in the ETX125 case by inverting it and placing it over the correcting plate, but the tabs make this impossible. I believe Meade used to make a metal screw in lens cap; any idea where I could get one? If not, any other ideas? Thanks Russ MorrowMike here: Gee, did Meade change the lens cap design on the new ETX-AT models? It used to be a screw-on cap and there were no tabs. As to dewshields, lots of ideas on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page.
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Yes, apparently Meade changed the lens cap design; it's no longer a screw on type, at lest not on my ETX, just purchased from telescopes.com; I don't really like the plastic one; it pops off pretty easily, and, as I said earlier, it makes storing the dew shield in the case impossible. RussMike here: Grrr. I really liked the screw-on cap.
Subject: ETX125-AT Optical Finder Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2010 10:42:09 From: Russell F. Morrow (russgtr@gmail.com) Thanks for all your work; very helpful site. My new ETX125-AT came with a red dot finder which works OK, but I'd like to add an optical finder; the red dot finder has kind of a wrap around bracket which screws into a threaded hole on the rear of the OTA; there's another threaded hole on the other side of the rear of the OTA, but all the finder brackets I've seen are designed to mount onto the perimeter, not the rear, of the OTA; I'm not sure it's a good idea to drill and tap holes in the perimeter of the rear cell since it appears to be plastic. Any ideas? Thanks Russ MorrowMike here: You can see various tips about adding a replacement or second finderscope on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page. Lots of such articles there.
Subject: ETX-125PE COLLIMATION Sent: Wednesday, April 7, 2010 16:33:23 From: Rashad Ujaimi (rujaimi@gmail.com) i'm in interested to buy this telescope but 1st of all i would like to know if it's easy to collimate? the reason is that i'm in saudi arabia and very far from Meade factory, and for sure the telescope will need collimation once it reach me. In general i'm ok with collimation and already collimated my 5" newt. telescope by a laser collimator, but i noticed even the Mat type telescope does not have front screws for 2ndary mirror adjustment. i really appreciate your advice, best regard Rashad UjaimiMike here: The ETX can be collimated by the owner but it is not a trivial task. See the "Star Testing and Collimation" section on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page.
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Thank you mike for your quick answer, i'm sure i will stick around your site and build the knowledge before i even by an ETX. best regards Rashad
Subject: NEW TO ETX & ASTRONOMY Sent: Wednesday, April 7, 2010 08:59:46 From: bhk@aol.com (bhk@aol.com) HOPE ALL IS WELL WITH YOU AND YOUR FAMILY. SAW YOUR FABULOUS SITE AND WANTED TO THANK YOU FOR THE INCREDIBLE RESOURCES IT PROVIDES. I ALSO HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS IF YOU DON'T MIND TAKING THE TIME (MUCH APPRECIATED!) PLEASE NOTE I AM A RELATIVE NOVICE TO ASTRONOMY. I RECENTLY ACQUIRED A USED ETX-125 1. THE DEC IS STUCK IN THE LOCKED POSITION TO THE RIGHT, (THE WNDSHIELD WIPER LOOKING SWITCH ON THE BASE) I CAN MOVE THE SCOPE LATERALLY BUT IT IS STIFF. I AM AFRAID TO FORCE IT AND BREAK SOMETHING. MEADE CUSTOMER SERVICE ASKED WHY I WOULD WANT TO UNLOCK IT - NO HELP. 2. AUTOSTAR LIGHTS UP RED, BUT READOUT JUST SHOWS BLANK RED BOXES, ARROWS WILL HOWEVER SLEW SCOPE UP/DOWN/LEFT/RT. MEADE WAS NO HELP, JUST SAID IT MUST BE REPLACED. 3. IT CAME WITH ONLY A MEADE MA25MM ANY RECOMMENDATIONS REGARDING A STARTER SET OF EYEPIECES - OR ZOOM, ETC.? (BUDGET IS NOT UNLIMITED) I WAS CONSIDERING THE CELESTIAL OBSERVER STARTER KIT (MEADE SUPER PLOSSL SERIES 4000 9.7MM & 15MM, AND #126 BARLOW - ABOUT $80) ANY ASSISTANCE IS GREATLY APPRECIATED, I AM REALLY EXCITED TO JOING THE ASTRONOMY COMMUNITY!! TAKE CARE, BRYAN BRYAN KLEIMAN BHK@AOL.COM MIAMI, FL.Mike here: First, please read the Email Etiquette item on the ETX Site Home Page; all CAPS is a pain to read. As to the Azimuth (not DEC) lock lever, you should be able to slide it away from fully locked position. Just use steady pressure on the lever. You may be able to adjust the AutoStar display brightness (assuming that is the problem); you might be able to see the menu on the screen by holding the AutoStar at an angle. As to eyepieces, Celestron likely doesn't include Meade eyepieces in their sets. That said, those eyepieces are a good choice. For more on eyepieces, see the Helpful Information: Buyer/New User Tips page as well as the Accessory Reviews: Eyepieces page.
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Thanks for the prompt response!! Just to update you: Great advice, steady pressure did release the Azimuth lever. Not as lucky with Autostar, pressing MODE to reset to factory default failed, and need to see display (which is blank red boxes) to scroll to brightness command. Should have been more specific, just for the info, product is described as Meade ETX Celestial Observer Starter Kit, and is a Meade product. Thanks again for all your help!! Take care, Bryan ps It's a bit cloudy here in MiamiMike here: Oops, my bad. I read "CELESTRIAL" as "Celestron". See, reading ALL CAPS is difficult! Glad you got the axis unlocked. If you want to try a fix the AutoStar via software, there are some things you'll need (hardware and software). So let me know if you want to try that.
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Thanks again!! I am going to try that most ingenious, brilliant thing first, changing out all 8 batteries!! If that fails I'll contact you to see if it pays to try the software fix. (Do the things really "go bad"? They sure seem sealed/solid state) Take care, Bryan ps Hope the clouds move on soon!!Mike here: Normally, the AutoStar won't fail. But it can happen.
Subject: [none] Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2010 18:18:09 From: Bill (poptown@metrocast.net) Well, I am totally lost. Having read the manual backwards and forwards, I am totally lost on how to align my scope. Here is what I do, step by step: I rotate the scope until it stops and then back so that the fork arm is over the control panel. Then I point it North and try to align. It takes me nowhere..dark sky. So I have searched with is manually. So far I have been able to see the moon. I have used a variety of lenses but overall, it seems as if it just magnifies the brightest stars. I purchased a binoviewer and have two 28mm plossl's in there but to no avail, just magnified dots of light. I tried a 9mm plossl and a 15, Kellener and I could not focus in on anything. The 42 mm Kellener was pretty clear and had good eye relief but overall I have seen nothing? The other issue is that the tripod is very shaky. Totally frustrated on these beautiful starry nights before black fly season in the Northeast, Does anyone have any suggestions?Mike here: First, I was not ignoring your email. I just discovered that it had been rejected two days ago as SPAM and deleted unread due to the missing Subject line. As mentioned on the ETX Site Home Page, please read the "Submittal Guidelines" (Email Etiquette") item on the ETX Home Page. Thanks for understanding. As to alignment, are you using True North or Magnetic North when you point the tube to the north? Is the telescope and mount base level? Oh yeah, it might help to know what model ETX telescope you have. Stars are very distant. So, they appear as "point sources". Most telescopes, even the largest ones when viewing the largest stars, still only show "points of light". However, stars have different colors, which you can see. And of course, the planets (most of them, anyway) will show disks. And there is the Rings of Saturn. And of course, the moon. Many of the brighter nebulae and galaxies will look nice, especially if you have very dark skies. Regarding the tripod, there are some tips on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page to reduce vibration or make the tripod a little more steady.
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Etx-125 and I am taking it outside and following the set up and turning it to the northMike here: Please re-read my email. Which "north"? Which model ETX-125? AT or PE?
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Sorry, magnetic north using the compass. The model is the ATMike here: That could be a source of the pointing error. You need to use True North, which, depending on your location can vary up to about 20 degrees from Magnetic North. If you can see the star Polaris, use it to indicate the position of True North on your northern horizon. Also, be certain you have your location and Daylight Saving settings correct.
Subject: ETX-60 eyepiece holder not fitting in hole Sent: Monday, April 5, 2010 14:25:39 From: Timothy J. Davis (tjdavis@akostech.com) I recently purchased a used ETX-60 and am having trouble getting the eyepiece holder to fit snugly into the telescope body. It was out when I purchased it, and not knowing enough about them, didn't think anything of it. I called MEADE customer care and they said the eyepiece holder was not supposed to be removed. Does anyone know of a way to repair it? It doesn't appear that anything was broken off inside, but the eyepiece holder looks more like a barlow lens, as it has MEADE 2X on the side of it, thumbscrew and a silver tube with a lense attached to the bottom of it. Any help would be appreciated. I was able to view Saturn last night, although I couldn't use anything smaller than the 25mm lense because of the lense holder problems. I could see lines that make the rings, but given photos of other ETX-60 views of Saturn, I wanted to see a greater magnification of it. BTW: Meade says they will take my ETX-60 and $150.00 and give me a new ETX-80. Should I just do that instead? I paid $60.00 for the ETX-60 on Craigslist.Mike here: Meade is correct; the eyepiece holder is not designed to be removed. It would seem to have been broken off somehow. If you can not get in re-inserted, you have two choices: take Meade up on their offer or get an ETX "visual back" accessory that allows eyepieces to be used at the rear port on the ETX.
Subject: re: ETX-125EC won't slew right or left Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 21:29:57 From: richard seymour (rseymour@wolfenet.com) D1 on that card is the infrared light-emitting diode used to -sense- the motor rotation. If the motor was -operating-, the grease covering it would have caused the 497 Autostar to report a "Motor Unit Fault". But having grease on it should not have stopped the smaller hand controller (maybe). I'm attaching a schematic from Meade's patent which gives a fair approximation of how the ETX-125 card works, too. There are -no- fuses on the Meade cards. It's very easy to fry bits if you don't know electronics. have fun --dick
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Subject: Regarding "D1" on "ETX-125EC won't slew right or left" Sent: Monday, April 5, 2010 20:07:49 From: jerry.wasinger@gmail.com (jerry.wasinger@gmail.com) D1 looks like an LED that shines on Q7 on the other side of the slot. Together they form an optical interrupter circuit - probably used to detect when one of the drives is in the init position.
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From: Cruz & Nelson Moore (m00res@bmi.net) Hi and thanks, Dick, I've got a sneaking suspicion that it's already fried, but (!) it isn't on fire. Yet! - But I'm persistent so there's hope for fireworks! :) Seriously, you are absolutely right; I'm not up to the task. I was hoping to find a loose wire or something obvious to me. If I can find local electronics whiz then I would take your schematic to them with the card and see if perhaps they could diagnose it. I'm not having much luck finding such a person. I called Meade Customer Support and they said they had to have the whole scope to guarantee that it would work, which is understandable. I'm not sure how to ship this but I've read "not in peanuts" someplace. From what I've read on this site, it may not be worth the $$$ to get the scope repaired to a point that I have to start practicing Voodoo magic just to keep it operational. I just want to look at the moon, the sun, and maybe a planet or two. I have an interest in photography, but a glance through this scope tells me I don't have that much patience. What a wobbly mount! At this point, after checking ebay and craigslist, these used scopes seem to be dropping in price. Then perhaps I can find a cheap replacement for parts. I have to wonder (fire-good) if it would be possible to hook the motor to a switch so it will work on command. That is, bypass this card without messing up the other motor. (I assume there's a card for the other motor) Thanks again for your help! NelsonMike here: Try Telescope Warehouse (link on the Astronomy Links page) for parts. Alternatively, you can mount the ETX OTA on a different tripod; see the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page for some ideas.
Subject: can't slew ccw! Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2010 18:00:50 From: Andy & Leah Lancour (smanj440@sbcglobal.net) I am messing with the 125 I bought used yesterday in the living room and I am getting MUF displays. It seems the scope will not slew counterclockwise, even if I try it manually (via Autostar). I know it did yesterday as we spent alot of time getting it set to run well before I bought it. I am not against the hardstop. Any ideas, Mike?Mike here: Check the batteries are inserted correctly. Check the AutoStar cable connections; unplug and reconnect the ends, or ever reversing the cable can solve the problem. Also, do a CALIBRATE MOTOR (if you can get past the MUF) and then do a TRAIN DRIVES.
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Not using batteries. Connections seem ok. Did a calibrate motor, and scope raised up, slewed clockwise, and stopped. The Autostar reads Testing motors through this, then reads Calibrate Motors again. That's it. I can't do a Train drives without slewing. No apparent problems with gears or broken wires. I also tried to switch to a both a different Autostar unit and a different cord form my 90, but it still won't slew CCW. It almost seems like it thinks it is up against the hardstop. One other thing I noticed is that the Autostar has "cord wrap" set to on, which is supposed to be off by default. However I cannot seem to make it switch off, no matter what buttons I try. That probably means nothing, though.Mike here: Cord wrap is just a way for the AutoStar to not rotate too far. Of course, the physical hard stops also prevent this. With the axis unlocked, can you feel any resistance to moving the telescope by hand past where the AutoStar stops slewing? Go slowly and carefully; you don't want to cut a wire if that's the cause of the resistance.
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I had opened up the bottom a couple times and everything seems to rotate fine - no obstructions or wires seem damaged or binding. I wonder if the LNT is the culprit here. I really don't want it anyway. Is it possible to pull the entire module and replace it with a standard finder? Or will Autostar still think I have it and go nuts. The problem with that theory, though, is that the left arrow (ccw slew) still didn't work when I tried a different Autostar unit. The Autostar seems to stop moving no matter where the scope is place/started from. It will not slew ccw - no matter where the scope is on the circumference of the base.Mike here: I doubt that the LNT module is at fault but if you want to disconnect and remove it, you can. Since two AutoStar units have the same problem, I suspect a bad connection, motor, or circuit board problem. But I would suggest disconnecting the external power source and using fresh batteries just to confirm it is not the power supply.
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looks like it is headed to Meade for repair - crapMike here: Sorry to hear that swapping to internal batteries didn't help.
Subject: Hi Mike Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2010 20:07:40 From: Ross Elkins (rosse25@comcast.net) We spoke 6 months ago about our golden nature guides! I was looking for a nice 8-10" scope but lost my job last October 1. Patience paid off and after 6 months of perusing the local Craigslist, I brought home a very nice ETX 90 EC for $100!!! It came with the additional autostar computer and the one 26mm eyepiece. Unfortunately, no tripod. I have a couple of bids on an 883 or 884 on ebay and I've seen a few on craigslist so something will turn up. I cleaned the eyepiece, mirror and the outside of the front lens carefully of fingerprints and dust with Dr. Clays brew. Now for the exciting (for me) news. On my first night of viewing I perched the 90 on a wooden rail and also tried holding the whole thing in my hands. Finally I stacked several full 5gallon paint pails and noticed what looked like a bright star. When I focused in I noticed rings and voila, it was as you can suspect the one and only planet Saturn. I was so excited, I called my best friend, got my wife out to see too and had a lot of fun. I owned some cheap kids toys telescopes since the day I got that Golden nature guide and gave up hope that I would ever really see something like Jupiter or Saturn as more than a bright dot. After that I kind of knew where the Orion nebula should be and I'm pretty sure I saw it. 4-6 stars and a faint amount of dust/gas as a backdrop. I put my equipment away feeling very satisfied and I'm hooked. My priorities are a couple of additional lenses, a 2x barlow and a/c adapter or battery pack. Update, just heard from someone on craigslist with a used 883 for $25! I think I'll be leaving now to buy it. I'm back! Got a really nice 883 tripod for $25. Picked up Meade barlow, 12.4, 9.7 and an Orion variable polarizer for $15 each. I'm in business! Gotta setup the tripod for tonight. Later! RossMike here: Reminder: see the Email Etiquette item on the ETX Site Home Page; your subject wasn't too descriptive. Ah, yes, that first view of Saturn through a telescope. That's something you will never forget! Welcome to a wider universe!!!
Subject: used scope checks Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2010 07:01:27 From: Andy & Leah Lancour (smanj440@sbcglobal.net) Today I am looking at a used 125 and am wondering if there is a way to check for optical problems during the daytime. It's a long drive and I want to be efficient in analyzing the scope. However it will not be dark out (but it's raining anyway) The 125 I had purchased new didn't work out, so I am hoping this one will. Thanks againMike here: Use a low power eyepiece and look at distant objects. Buildings should have straight lines on the sides and windows. If you have a shiny Christmas tree ornament or can find a shiny yard ornament, you can do a "star test". See the article "Star Test in Daylight" on the Helpful Information: Telescope Tech Tips page. Of course, also look at the optical surfaces for evidence of coating damage (ie, smears, scratches, etc.).
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Good tips, Thanks Mike.Mike here: There's more info in the article "Purchasing a Used Telescope" on the Helpful Information: Buyer/New User Tips page.
Subject: When did UHTC become standard? Sent: Friday, April 2, 2010 06:46:03 From: Andy Lancour (andy@spe-wi.com) I know UHTC is standard now, but do you know what year this happened? On the 125s -Thanks Andy LancourMike here: I'll have to get back to you. To answer your question will require that I go back through all my Meade catalogs and see which one shows that.
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As long as you are doing that, ol' buddy ol' pal, when did they get rid of the finderscope and replace it with a red dot finder? Thanks, MikeMike here: The catalogs I have (through 2007) don't show the changeover of the finderscope nor when UHTC became standard. So, as a guess, I'd say they both occurred in 2008, +/- 1yr.
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thanks for your time, Mike
Subject: ETX-125EC won't slew right or left Sent: Thursday, April 1, 2010 11:02:19 From: Cruz & Nelson Moore (m00res@bmi.net) Recently I was given a Meade ETX-125EC. Actually, my brother-in-law gave it to my kids, ages 9 & 11, and I am attempting to figure it out. I've been taking photos of the moon the past couple of nights using a controller that has "35-4702-00" written/stamped on the back side. Today the left and right slew motors do not function. The up&down slew functions properly. I tried a different controller, #497 (I think), and the left/right slew did not function with it either. I called Meade customer service, and was told that I would need to send this in for a $160 repair. Considering that the scope, tripod, case and several eyepieces were gifts, I think I can afford the repair. However, I am curious if I may have done something to disengage the left/right slew motor, or otherwise damaged the scope out of ignorance. Would you be able to advise/comment on this and/or give direction? Is there another repair service you would recommend over or beside Meade? Thank you, NelsonMike here: Lets do some Q&A first. Since you indicate that the slewing problem occurs with both handcontrollers, we'll assume the AutoStar (the one with the number keys) isn't at fault at this point. When you slide the azimuth (horizontal) locking lever, does it actually lock the telescope position? That is, if you try to move the telescope tube sideways by hand (gentlely), it doesn't want to move. With the axis unlocked, can you hear the motors in the base running when you press the slew arrow keys? Have you replaced the batteries in the telescope base? (If you have replaced the batteries, be certain to do a CALIBRATE MOTOR from the AutoStar. Also, if you have never done one, you should do a TRAIN DRIVES with the AutoStar, once slewing works.)
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Hi, thanks for your response. When you slide the azimuth (horizontal) locking lever, does it actually lock the telescope position? Yes. With the axis unlocked, can you hear the motors in the base running when you press the slew arrow keys? No. This motor (horizontal/right/left) makes no sound when I press the left or right arrow keys. The declination/verticle motor and movement/sound appear to work fine. Have you replaced the batteries in the telescope base? Yes. However, I took them out and tried operations with AC converted power, with the same results. I performed these tests on AC power. If you have replaced the batteries, be certain to do a CALIBRATE MOTOR from the AutoStar. I aligned the tripod and scope, while initializing Autostar. This resulted in an error message saying there was a motor fault/failure. Additionally, when I turn the power switch on the scope's base on with the controller detached, the vertical motor fires every so often for a second or two, raising the tube until the viewfinder bracket hits the fork arm. I have had the base plate off and could not see any loose wires. Thanks again for your advice, NelsonMike here: Did you attach the AC adapter before or after the problem started? Some slight movement is normal with the handcontroller not attached BUT powering on without a handcontroller is NOT recommended. If you can not hear any sound from the motors when slewing in the horizontal direction, then it is likely there is some problem. Either the motor has failed or the circuit board has failed. Just to be certain, have you tried running the motor at different speeds using either handcontroller (with the axis UNLOCKED)?
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Did you attach the AC adapter before or after the problem started? After. Just to be certain, have you tried running the motor at different speeds using either handcontroller (with the axis UNLOCKED)? Yes. The motor still does not fire.Mike here: OK, time for a repair. Your choices: Meade or Dr. Clay Sherrod's "Supercharge" Service. Info on the Supercharge is on the ETX Site Home Page.
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Ok, thanks a lot, Mike.
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Took off the cover plate - again. :) Vertical motor runs when 4 wire set switched to horizontal switch. So the controller ok, and that first card/board inside the case must be ok (the circuit board you plug the controller, ac power into). Then checked resistance in 4 wires going to circuit board below horizontal gears. Seems ok. Then remove circuit board - ETX 125 15-4506-00 REV C. There weas a gob of grease over "D1". This looks like a fuse? Top had some black stuff on it - hot grease? Wiped it off. This "D1" is a little clear plastic thing that has two little inverted golf clubs inside. Are they supposed to be fused together? These don't appear to be. Can I jumper the bottom of the golf clubs and try? Zzzzzttttt! Ha ha. You can tell I didn't pay for this, eh? And, I've been off work for 9 months - work comp, still getting paid, but that is probably going to end soon along with the job so I'm looking to save money. Hence, the screwdriver approach. Do you know where I could purchase this card/circuit board. I read a similar post on your site and on this one: http://www.cloudynights.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=18226& sort=& cat=all&page=1 I've attached photos of the board and the "D1" dohinky that was covered in grease. Under magnification there is a hint of a gold thread going between the two "golf clubs". Hope my terminology isn't too technical for ya. :) Thanks again for your advice. Nelson
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OK, thanks. I'm only getting .315 volts to the RC drive motor after the board, and it has 11.97vt to it (black/red). I plan to call meade (closed today, Friday April 2) and see if perhaps I can send this board in for repair other than the entire scope. In the meantime I will look for a local eletronics whiz as you suggested earlier. Thanks again.Mike here: I doubt that Meade will agree to that.
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