GENERAL FEEDBACK Last updated: 30 April 2008

This page is for user comments and information of a general nature or items applicable to all LXD55 and LXD75 models. If you have any comments, suggestions, questions or answers to questions posed here, e-mail them to me and I'll post them. Please use an appropriate Subject Line on your message. Thanks.

Subject:	Clay's Kochab's Clock question
Sent:	Tuesday, April 29, 2008 13:02:38
From:	Oz (wforacer@rocketmail.com)
I am new to GEM mounts, I have a LXD75.

I read the link below and "think" there is a problem with it, but it's
probably just me.

The NCP is BETWEEN Polaris and Kochab, in the 2nd and 3rd  picture I
think is incorrect. I think the counterweight bar should be 180 degree
from what the picture is. This way, the little circle is placed on
Polaris and the NCP will be BETWEEN Polaris and Kochab. The way the
current picture shows is the NCP is not between Polaris and Kochab.

Please correct me if wrong.


Thanks for all your great info on your web site!
Oz

Simplified 
Clay's Kochab's Clock
Polar Alignment Method
For The German Equatorial Mount

http://www.weasner.com/lxd/techtips/polar_alignment.html

Subject:	LXD75 hypertune kit
Sent:	Tuesday, April 29, 2008 09:34:46
From:	Andrew Dumont (bongo69@earthlink.net)
I am thinking of performing a at home hypertune on my LXD75 and have a
couple questions.Will performing the hypertune dramatically improve
tracking for longer exposure times.Right now,my scope will accurately
track for about 65 seconds (prime focus) before I begin to see some star
trailing.How long can I expect exposure times to increase after the
hypertune?.Also,when I goto a object,the scope will slew to the object
but,is barely in the FOV and sometimes I have to perform a spiral search
to find even the brightest objects.Will the scope (after the hypertune)
accurately point to the desired object without guessing if the object is
in the FOV.I realize that a good polar alignment is necessary for real
long exposures but,at the moment I don't own a lighted reticle for
performing a PEC and was just wondering how large the improvemnt will be
AFTER a hypertune.I own a Meade DSI and have used it a few times for
brighter objects but,I want to image those real faint fuzzys.Which is
tough when one doesn't know if the scope has slewed to the object
correctly.
Thanks,
Andrew
  
Andrew Dumont

And:

I can get the object in the FOV when using the 26mm eye piece (actually
at the very edge of FOV) but,would like to get it closer to center.I
have had this scope and mount for almost 3 years and have performed zero
maintanane on it.With the economic stimulus checks the government has
issued.I thought I would take the opportunity to pay for the fix.Using
the rest of the money for bill payments of course.One thing I am curious
about is polar alignment.The scope is dead level and balanced and I put
Polaris in the center of the circle of the polar alignment
scope.Now,when the scope is in the home position,shouldn't Polaris be
close to center when looking through the OTA?.I find Polaris through the
main OTA to be on the very edge of FOV,even before alignment.Using my
logic (which is Nothing to brag about),if Polaris is barely in the FOV
and after alignment,the desired object is the same area of FOV.Wouldn't
adjusting the saddle so Polaris is near center in the FOV,better the
chances of getting the desired object near center also?.
Oh and yes I have calibrated the motors and trained the drives.
Thanks,Andrew

Subject:	Autostar 497 erratic behavior
Sent:	Monday, April 28, 2008 12:58:44
From:	Kirk Stenvall (kirk@stenvall.net)
Thank you so much for providing your wonderful website to us lxd55/75
users. I have a problem that I can't seem to find a solution for. I've
searched the internet, read your site and several others, but nothing
I've tried has worked.

I purchased a used LXD75 6"SN several months ago. Not long after buying
it, I threw caution to the wind and mounted a 10" newt on it, which
needed a total of 35lbs. of counterweight, plus the extra weight of the
OTA. I knew I was pushing the envelope, but making sure that balance was
as close to perfect as I was able to achieve, I set it up. I've had it
out several nights a week since then, and the mount/Autostar has worked
flawlessly -- with this mammoth OTA on it!

Several nights ago I added a DSLR to the focus tube (after lobbing 3.25"
from the OTA to achieve back focus) and rebalanced. After slewing
to/tracking several objects without a problem (as usual), I began
receiving "motor unit fault" errors. I was running on 8 D-cell batteries
so the first thing I did was replace the battery back with the power
adapter that came with the scope (from Meade) yet oontinued to receive
the "motor unit fault" errors. Assuming the extra weight of the DSLR was
the straw that broke the camels back, I tore everything down and decided
that I'd use the original 6" OTA for photography and not push the mount
any further.

To get to the point, my Autostar controller is now not working properly.
When powered up, sometimes it goes directly to "testing motors" followed
by "motor unit fault". Sometimes when powered up, the Autostar goes
through normal procedure: date, time, daylight savings, etc. Then when
it gets to "align", and I attempt to do so, the motors don't respond.
The controller will display "slewing", but the mount just sits there.
Sometimes if I leave it powered up, for instance while I was downloading
and replacing the most recent Autostar update, the motors will engage by
themselves for several seconds, then stop. Then several minutes later,
one or both motors might engage for several seconds then stop. Like it's
receiving something from Autostar.

I'm sure it's the Autostar and not the motors. I have an old DS114 with
the old Electronic Hand Controller (no goto) and when I attach it to the
mount, it operates both motors at all speeds correctly.

I've checked the encoder wheels and they seem fine, other than being at
the far end of the shaft (not in the middle). I've reset the Autostar
many times and replaced the Autostar software (43Eg). I'm at a loss. I
would have thought if the overbearing weight would have done anything,
it would have burned out a motor, not affect the autostar.

Can you offer any suggestions?

Thank you so much for you time.

Kirk Stenvall

And:

Thank you so much for the quick reply.

I'm assuming that since the old controller operates the mount, that the
gears and motors are OK... which is great news! I checked the connectors
and all appears to be fine. I've dropped the Autostar several times onto
the asphalt (that coil cord is suicidal), but don't recall doing so the
night that this all began happening. But perhaps those drops have
finally affected it's performance.

I'll wait to see if Dick Seymour has any ideas.

Worse case scenario, I purchase a new Autostar, which is much better
than replacing the entire mount.

Thank you again!

Kirk

And:

From:	Richard Seymour (rseymour@wolfenet.com)
I agree with Mike's diagnosis: it sounds like a bad connection
between the Autostar and the motor cards in the mount.
("bad" can include an open wire, but also two of the leads 
short-circuiting to each other).
Swapping the handbox cable end-for-end is the first and simplest
thing to try.  Pushing and wiggling the connectors is number two.

good luck
--dick

And:

My thanks to you both for your time on this matter.

Swapping the ends of the cord changed nothing. However, even though it
doesn't fix the erratic behavior,  wiggling and pushing one end of the
cord does give a different response.  The Autostar will either present
"Testing Motors" then the error and nothing more, or, after wiggling an
end it will present "Testing Motors" then the DEC motor will run for a
second, then the error appears.

Fortunately, I work for a company that has all the necessary parts and
tools to completely replace the connectors on both ends of the cord.
I'll do that tomorrow at work.

Thank you again. I'll let you know what happens.

Kirk

And:

If you can hold one end steady...
does it matter -which- socket/plug gets wiggled?
Some 497's had poor solder joints where the RJ45 socket
attached to the circuit card.
Re-making (and frequently, just re-crimping) the cable does
frequently fix problems like this, i'm glad you've got access
to the tools and parts

good luck
--dick

Yes. It does matter. It's the end that plugs into the housing that
contains the computer control panel and RA motor. To try and verify
this, I switched the cord around again and after one "testing motors"
display and the dec motor going for a few seconds, then a fault, I
turned it off then back on again and the "testing motors" appeared but
neither motor engaged. Then the Autostar went into the "Enter Date"
screen and all the way through to "Align: Easy". I pressed Enter, it
selected a star, displayed "Slewing", but nothing engaged. I then
wiggled the connector plugged into the control panel and the Dec motor
began spinning. It spun for several seconds then paused. Then spun for
several seconds then paused. This continued until it went nearly 360
degrees at which time I turned the power off.

Do you think it's safe to assume that the extra weight on the mount was
not the reason for these current problems? The photos I get from the 10"
are so much more superior to those from the 6". If however, it's not
safe to assume that, I'd rather have many years of enjoyable 6"
photographing than a shorter time with the 10" because I've overloaded
my mount.

Kirk

Kirk Stenvall wrote:
> .... I then
> wiggled the connector plugged into the control panel and the Dec motor 
> began spinning. It spun for several seconds then paused. Then spun for 
> several seconds then paused. This continued until it went nearly 360 
> degrees at which time I turned the power off.

That is a -specific- symptom of an open connection to the motor control
card... (the run/stop/run/stop)... you can demonstrate this by
powering up the scope with the Autostar completely detatched.

No, i don't think "overloading" had any contribution to this.

But i do think that, after you have made a new cable,
  you may have to check whether or not the pins (wires)
in the mount's socket are truly reaching the plug's pins,
and also the solder joint from the socket to the distribution
panel, the seating of the DEC motor cable connector on that
distribution panel, and perhaps whether or not there's a
crack in any of the copper traces on that panel.

But first try fixing the cable, and checking the contact
pins in the socket (disconnect power supply, and then try
-gently- pulling them a little (-little-) further up so
that they reach into the grooves of the plug just a smidge
better)

good luck
--dick

And:

Okey dokey. I'll check and double check everything you've suggested,
obviously doing the easiest first (cable/pins). Then work my way down
the line.

Thank you both so much for the time and effort you've put into helping
me, and others. I'm encouraged that my night time activities won't be
curtailed for long!

I'll certainly let you know how things turn out.

Kirk

And:

We've not known each other very long, but I feel comfortable in saying
that I love you both. LOL.

I tested the cord that connects the Autostar to the controller box on
the mount and it tested faulty on 2 wires. Using regular Cat-5 ethernet
cable, I created a new cable using the cord connectors as a guide. After
connecting the Autostar to the mount with this new cable, and resetting
the Autostar, it's working perfectly!! It was a bad cable/cord.

I've not had it out under the night sky yet, but I've done several mock
alignments indoors and it appears to be slewing automatically and
manually the way it should.

I simply can't thank you both enough for your guidance. Thank you. Thank
you.

Kirk

Subject:	lxd75 mount
Sent:	Tuesday, April 22, 2008 14:19:08
From:	starman2@comcast.net (starman2@comcast.net)
I have a question for you. My lxd75 mount, when slewed to the west,
after releasing the button. will slowly slew back to the east, for a few
seconds. When the east button is pushed, This does not occur. Nor does
this occur for the north or south buttons. The weird thing about this
is. It does not seem to be a backlash. I don't know if, the motor is
actually rotating the drive gears. But it smoothly rotates back a few
degrees. Before coming to a rest. And begins to track. Other then that,
it works fine. Hopefully you can help me out. Thanks! Roger Schultz

And:

You know, as a matter of fact. I did a hyper tune on the mount. And I
have not done a calibration, or a drive training as of yet. Do you think
that could be the problem?  I was in such a hurry, to start using it. I
forgot about the initial start-up procedures. Another thing I did, was
go from an AR6, to an SN8. I changed the telescope type in the menu. But
that is all I have done.  Thanks alot! Roger

And:

Thanks very much for the info. I will perform the operations. And will
let you know if this solved the problem. CLEAR SKIES!! Roger Schultz

Subject:	OTA upgrade suggestions for Meade N6 LXD75?
Sent:	Sunday, April 20, 2008 03:08:25
From:	Craig Starnes (cstarnes@jcsautomation.com)
First, thanks for a fantastic site. I've spent a lot of time there over
the last year while modifying and learning to use my N6 LXD75.

I was wondering if you could give me some advice. I'd like to upgrade to
a bigger OTA, but keep my existing mount. My main reason for wanting to
do this is to improve my DSO experience; the 6" is a nice scope, but
just doesn't quite cut it when looking at the warm fuzzies. Of course
like most people, I also want it to be "ideal" for every other kind of
viewing also :D.

The problem is, I can't seem to find anyone that sells just the OTA...
much less ones that I know would be compatable with the LXD75. I'm
thinking of something along the lines of the SN-8, with the better
coatings and of course the extra 2" of aperature. I'd also like the
option of an electronic focuser that can be driven from Autostar. (I
heavily modified and installed one on my N-6, but it isn't ideal).

I basically just move the assembled scope from an upstairs room out onto
my deck, but I probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than an 8",
unless I can find something lightweight enough for the LXD75 mount with
better performance, and at a "reasonable" cost. I'm hoping to spend less
than $600 on just the tube.

Any advice?
 
Thanks again for the site and any help!
 
Craig Starnes
OKC, Ok.

And:

Where can I pick up these OTA's and associated hardware? I'm having a
hard time finding anyone that specializes (or even mentions) mixing and
matching tubes and mounts. Seems that everyone is just selling complete
scopes.

Also, what will the longer focal length of the SC give me, vs. the 6"/8"
newt or SN? I'm still learning and trying to figure out the details when
it comes to focal length, etc.  :-)
 
Thanks again!
 
Craig

And:

Looks like I may be sticking with my 6" for a while and just trying to
tweak it to it's best due to $$$, and there doesn't seem to be many used
larger tubes around.

As for the mount, I was reading this article on your site:

http://www.weasner.com/lxd/techtips/polar_alignment.html

It mentions changing out the polar scope's allen head collimation screws
with thumb-style screws, which is a great idea based on my experiences
in trying to collimate the thing. Do you know what size screws these are
and where I could find thumb-style replacements?

I'd also like to replace my modified electric stock focuser (article is
here: http://www.sightsabove.com/article.php?article=13) with a higher
quality electric one that will still plug into Autostar. (I really like
having everything on one controller & the remote capability, but the
image shift with the cheap stock focuser is driving me nuts). Are there
any other options for this, other than the 1240 mod? Or how about a
higher quality focuser that can be modified with the 1240 or other Meade
Autostar complient electric focusers?
 
Thanks as always,
 
Craig

Subject:	LXD55 & Meade 909 APM
Sent:	Friday, April 11, 2008 14:40:16
From:	fjmraz@hotmail.com
Do you have a collection of any mail and tips regarding the use of
Meade's 909 APM ?
 
Frank

And:

Thank you...Found what I was seeking.

Frank

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