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Last updated: 26 December 2002
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Last updated: 26 December 2002 |
This page documents astrophotography comments, tips, and photos. Contributions welcome. Be certain to see the other articles on the main Astrophotography page.
Subject: digital astrophotography Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2002 13:26:15 From: marc_windrich@hotmail.com (marcus windrich) I notice some people on your site have posted up pictures taken with digital cameras. My question is that my camera, the Canon Powershot S110 will only keep the shutter open for 1 second or less. This is appropriate for the moon and planets...I wanted to know if anyone has gotten any deep sky images using a camera with a 1 second exposure and stacking, as opposed to stacking several 15 or 20 second exposures. I was considering the Scopetronics camera adapter, but I would like to do more than just the moon and planets. Thanks for your help and keep up the good work on the awesome site! MarcusMike here: Stacking can do amazing things.
Subject: WEBCAM PROBLEM Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2002 23:57:59 From: KPOON2002@aol.com HI MY NAME IS ARMARTIS, AND MY WEBCAM KEEPS SHOWING BLURRY VISION EVEN BEFORE I SNAP THE PICTURE.I TRYED ADJUSTING THE COLORS AND ALL BUT NOTHING SEEMS TO WORK. SO I WAS WONDERING DO U HAVE ANY ANSWERS TO THIS.THANXMike here: I need more info on your setup. Telescope, method of attachment, etc.
Subject: digital imaging Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 22:01:29 From: cctham@pacific.net.sg (cctham@pacific.net.sg) Saw your comment to Marcus about stacking. Just wondering if it'd make a difference whether it's 1s exposures or 15s? Seems that 15s may in fact work against it since it'd accumulate a lot more noise during the exposure? Also, what do you think would be the minimum pixel requirement for using digital cameras on the ETX? There seem to be so many digital cameras to choose from nowadays! :) TCMike here: Well, the exposure needs to be long enough to capture useful data. How long that needs to be depends upon the object, the telescope system, and the imager system. The longer the exposure the more noise potential. Always tradeoffs! As to a minimum pixel requirement, any camera will do. I started out in 1996 using a 320x240 72dpi Casio. Worked amazingly well. If you can avoid, today's 4 and 5 megapixel cameras will also work well. And so does everything inbetween.
And:
Hey, thanks for your fast response! Great to hear that we don't need the latest uber digital cams to do this. As for exposure times, I guess best way would be through experimentation, since it doesn't cost any extra! :) OK, thanks once again! TC
Subject: Re: SAC imagers Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 22:12:42 From: Wargamer71@cs.com First, let me say great web site! Second, I am impressed with the SAC pics. I guess they do make very good amateur CCDs. Third, I noticed some impressive pictures made with digital cameras on your web site. I am curious: is there one digital camera that is best overall? I am thinking I might go with a digital camera for my Meade 8" SCT. Thanks for the help! Ad Majorem Dei Gloriam, +S.D. Tortorice + "Oh, how great is my spirit! I feel superior to that miserable world lost in the immeasurable distance beneath me; planets frolic about me---comets pass by casting forth their fiery tails, and centuries hence they will return, still running like horses on the field of space. How I am soothed by this immensity! Yes, this is indeed made for me; the infinite surrounds me on all sides. I am devouring it with ease." ---->>Gustave Flaubert, Smarh, 1839, translated by Jim Leblanc.Mike here: There are many excellent digital cameras. For astrophotography the best ones will have a threaded lens to accept filters or other lens (for attaching an eyepiece), a long exposure duration (several seconds) capability, a shutter release cable available or self-timer that allows the full range of exposures), a zoom lens or macro mode (to reduce vignetting), a built-in noise reduction mode, user selectable ISO rating, and be lightweight.
And:
Do you have any specific brands/models in mind?Mike here: I like my Nikon Coolpix 995. Others like their cameras. See the Helpful Information --> Astrophotography page for several pages on different cameras.
Subject: focusing problem Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2002 3:01:21 From: classicantjazz@lycos.com (antonius susanto) I think it's my luck to find your mighty website. I'm an amateur stargazer and currently staying in Melbourne, Australia. I just started astrophotography about two or three months ago. I use ETX-105 and a Pentax K1000 for this purpose. The camera is mounted to the telescope with a t-mount which can be put onto the eyepiece mount. the problem that i have here is the focusing process. With lunar and planetary photograpy, i don't find much problem because they are relatively bright. However, taking picture of faint objects, like star cluster is fascinatingly tideous. I have taken many picture of "Jewel Box", but none of them is in focus. I could hardly see the object through the viewfinder of the camera. I wonder if you can help me out of this problem. Thank you very very much. Cheers, Antonius Thambrin.Mike here: See the article "Focus Aid, Autostar Aligning Aid" on the Telescope Tech Tips page. This is similar to the Kendrick KwikFocus (commercially available). The downside is that it makes objects even fainter and so harder to see in a camera's viewfinder. If the camera has replaceable screens, then a simple frosted glass can work better than the typical viewfinder. One other mod that can be helpful is to "mark" the position of the focus. Make a small pointer on the focus knob and then mark a fine line on the ETX base where the Moon is in focus with the camera. Always try to align the marks the same way.
Subject: Information Please Sent: Tuesday, August 6, 2002 14:03:54 From: Rhpeltz@aol.com I recently saw a book for taking photos with the ETX. Do you have any information on this. Just purchased the ETX 125 from your site. Several friends are also interested in your site and I have given them your site address. Keep up the good work. I have just given my old scope to my son who knows very little about astronomy. I would like to purchase some CD programs for him. He is really a beginner. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks much. Bob Peltz Alta Loma, CAMike here: If you mean my book on the ETX, "Author, Author!" link on the ETX Site home page. If you mean general astrophotography books, see the Accessory Reviews - Books page. For some software comments, see the Accessory Reviews - Software page.
And:
Thanks, I knew I saw it on your site but could not find it again.
Subject: Astrophotography Sent: Friday, August 9, 2002 9:15:49 From: Mariol066@aol.com Alex Villalobos When you take photo of the sky background with a telescope what f stop would you recommend and exposure. Also for the planets and moon.Mike here: That depends upon the film speed, shutter speed, and many other parameters. In general you want the lens as "wide open" as possible although perhaps not fully open (which can reduce sharpness on the images). For info on Astrophotography see the Helpful Information --> Astrophotography page; there are many links there that may help you get started.
Subject: first astrophotography picture Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2002 14:50:45 From: alex_cashshadow@hotmail.com (Alex) i hope you could respond right away tonight i am gonna do my first pictures in astro-photography i have an etx-70 at and an olympus camera i will try the north american nebula because i like nebulas. And i will finish it with venus and saturn. I dont know how long the exposure time should be i dont want to waste and pictures . Im using a fujifilm 1600 Thank You Sincerly AlexMike here: When doing film-based astrophotography you WILL go through a lot of film. You should always bracket exposures (take at several durations). Planets will usually require exposures in the 1/4-second to 2 seconds range (more or less, depending upon the film speed, telescope, eyepiece, distance to the film plane, sky conditions, and object brightness). For wide spread nebulae, piggybacking the camera is the best choice and you'll use exposures of several minutes (to several hours) depending upon the object, sky conditions, etc. Of course, you don't want it to be so long that the film fogs. Many high speed films suffer from increasing fogging as the exposure gets longer and so captures less and less information over time (known as "reciprocity failure"). Of course, exposures more than fractions of a second can experience trailing (due to the Earth's rotation or poor alignment), field rotation (due to using an Alt/Az mounting), and image blurring (due to vibrations in the camera-telescope-tripod system). Astrophotography, especially film-based, requires patience, experience, planning, and luck.
Subject: first astrophotography picture Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 16:08:52 From: alex_cashshadow@hotmail.com (Alex) i just got my pictures in. I am the Worst Ever. I Cant see Anything!!! I Use Fujifilm1600 And it probably was the exposure time.Mike here: Astrophotography with film is a learning experience. You didn't say what equipment you used or what objects you tried but starting with the Moon is a good way to learn. Also, see the Helpful Information --> Astrophotography page; lots of good info linked from there.
Subject: moon Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 20:11:13 From: Mariol066@aol.com Alex Villalobos I recently took pictures of the moon some turn out OK the others were to much grey or light. I was just wondering which exposure time would be the best and F stop I use a f8.Mike here: Keep in mind that the Moon is essentially illuminated by the Sun the same way the Earth is. So in general, the same exposure that works for daylight shots on the ground will work for shots of the Moon. That's for starters. However, things are made slightly more difficult by the equipment you are using (if any). If you are shooting at prime focus or using eyepiece projection at a telescope you may have to adjust the exposure due to the dimming effect of the optics. If your camera has an exposure meter, start with that but bracket the exposures and allow for whether the meter is reading a dark portion or a light portion of the Moon.
Subject: moon Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 21:03:51 From: Mariol066@aol.com Alex Villalobos I took a few pictures of the moon with a f/8 and a 1/250 expouse,and i was wondering will these photo appear or was it to fastMike here: You should get an image, assuming the moon was on the film plane. But there are a lot of variables, like the film speed and what telescope and eyepiece you used.
Subject: Re: first astrophotography picture Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 11:12:32 From: alex_cashshadow@hotmail.com (alex casciato) i have an olympus camera and i used 1600 fujifilm. i tried the moon,venus,saturn,the north american nebulae and the andromeda galaxy.Mike here: Read through the Helpful Information --> Astrophotography pages for advice and general info.
Subject: Planets pictures Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 18:01:52 From: Mariol066@aol.com Alex Villalobos I have a lx 90 I have been astrophotograpy for a while and I want to start planets. I took some of Venus but it a appear a bright line I should have track but I dont know how to. I was using the scope with no battier, and I want to keep it that way. If you think tracking would help please give me a site or tell me were you have it.Mike here: You will have to track if you want to compensate for the Earth's rotation. And you should track with the telescope mounted in Polar Mode. The only way to not have to track is to keep exposures very short; less than a second when doing eyepiece projection.
Subject: long exposure Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 17:48:28 From: Mariol066@aol.com Alex Villalobos Will a wedge for a lx 90 help me for long exposure and if it does how?Mike here: A wedge will tilt the telescope to match your latitude, which will mean you can use the telescope in Polar mounting mode instead of Alt/Az. In Polar mode, the tracking is done by using the Right Ascension drive only, which simplifies things. In Alt/Az, both drives have to run to track, and that results in "field rotation", which results from being in Alt/Az. To eliminate the field rotation in Alt/Az you have to use a "field de-rotator" attachment. Using a wedge is better.
Subject: Astrophotography with the ETX-70AT Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 17:13:46 From: phillips@vzpacifica.net (Jim Phillips) In your experience, is there enough backfocus for a 35mm camera on the ETX70? How about the 416XTE ccd? If so, what adapters are required? I have the ring for my OM-1, and I have the Meade variable teleadapter. I also have an Orion eyepiece holder that screws onto the straight-thru port of the ETX70. I wanted to do some solar imaging (with filter!!!) using my 416, but I don't know if it will focus through the ETX70 or not. Thanks, Mike. Jim. _______________________________ Saipan, Northern Mariana Islands N15º 09' 21" E145º 44' 26" UTC +10Mike here: You'll need a camera adapter designed for the ETX-70AT (from Meade). However, it may or may not focus with your camera model, depending upon the design of the camera. I don't have the CCD or Olympus so can't answer directly.
Subject: Digital Cameras and Astrophotography Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 05:39:03 From: maurice-l@shaw.ca (Maurice) I have recently taken up astrophotography with my ETX 90 and an old Nikon F camera. I would like to switch to a digital camera but am having difficulty locating an affordable one which has provision for extended time exposure (5 minutes.) The Nikon Coolpix seems to suit my needs but not my pocketbook. Does anyone out there have any suggestions in the under $500 range? Thanks, Maurice Lacroix, Sherwood Park, AB Canada.Mike here: Used cameras may satisfy your budget requirements. Like with telescopes, as manufacturers enhance their cameras, people want the newer features and so sell their old cameras.
Subject: Info on Astrophotography for ETX70... Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2002 16:36:05 From: asadqayyum77@yahoo.co.uk (Asad Qayyum) I was wondering if you could tell me whether the ETX70 is uitable for prime-focus photography. I recently purchased the EOS-300 SLR Camera and was quite eager to "strap" it to my scope using a T-ring and adapter but I have been told by the folks here that I can't attach it to the scope with the eye-piece attache to it. Is this true? I was told that I could attach the camera to the scope but the eyepiee would not be attache at the same time....this obviousy would not give me the magnification I had expected. I'd be obliged if you or any of the ETX users who read your site could help me with this.....the gentleman at the store said that the only way to shoot through the lens with the ETX-70 is to hhod the camera by hand over the lens....(this of course does not then allow me room for long exposures while tracking an object). Thanks a lot Mike. AsadMike here: I suggest you look at the links listed on the Helpful Information --> Astrophotography page. The short answer is that for prime focus photography you use the telescope (minus the eyepiece and without the camera lens) just like a telephoto lens (a 350mm telephoto in the case of the ETX-70AT). To do eyepiece projection photography (eyepiece but no camera lens) you need the proper adapters. To do afocal photography (eyepiece AND camera lens) you need the proper adapters. You may also need a counterweight system to balance for the camera weight. And then we come your comment about doing long exposures; keep in mind that the tracking of the ETX is not that precise for long duration astrophotography through the telescope. And lastly, some cameras may not be able to reach a focus with the ETX-70AT when doing prime focus photography. But if you are not disappointed yet, see the links on the ETX Site as astrophotography of some objects using the ETX-70AT is certainly possible.
Subject: CCD Camera Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2002 17:05:44 From: XxGnEiSeNAuxX@aol.com Can you please point me in the direction of a good CCD camera for an ETX-125? Thanks, JamesMike here: I don't have a CCD imager but take a look at the Helpful Information --> Astrophotography page for starters.
Subject: astrophotography Sent: Friday, September 6, 2002 11:43:14 From: alex_cashshadow@hotmail.com (Alex) none of the pictures came out when i took them in prime focus so i have a book called Astrophotography for the Amateur.By Micheal A. Covington 2nd Edition .I will try piggybankingmy olympus slr on my meade etx-70 but i need the piggybank adaptor Do you know where i can get it?Mike here: Scopetronix sells one.
Subject: ETX 125 Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 7:16:55 From: N2MWE@msn.com (kieran OHagan) After using the ETX 70, and having my love for the sky being renewed by this fantastic scope, I have decided to upgrade to the Supercharged ETX 125. What I would like to know is whether the Barlow lens that I use for the 70 is compatible with the 125, or should I invest in the Barlow made specifically for the 125. I am also wondering about how stable the telescope is in polar mode with a 35mm camera attached to the rear. I have an old Konica Autoreflex TC, and I have ordered the T-ring and T adapter for the 125...are there any precautions I should know about as far as mounting the camera. I will be using the Deluxe 884 tripod. Keep up the good work on the site. Thanks! Kieran J. O'Hagan Senior Court Officer/AEMT-II N2MWE@msn.com "The World will end before We Ever Forget."Mike here: The Barlow Lens should be OK. It is normally going the other way that can be problematic. As to attaching a camera at the rear, that will depend upon a couple of things such as the weight of the camera and counter balancing it. Also, you'll need to use the "hat trick" method for exposures to avoid shutter/mirror vibrations. And keep in mind that tracking is not that accurate for long duration astrophotography (ie, more than a few seconds at best) at prime focus.
Subject: Photography with my ETX70 Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 4:29:55 From: iannewey@phoenixpearson.com (Newey, Ian D.) Last weekend I went camping with the wife and naturally I took my trustee ETX70. The first night was awesome. Bare in mind I live in a heavily populated town in the south of the UK and we have quite a bit of light pollution and now I'm in the back of wup wup (middle of nowhere) with hardly any light pollution. I couldn't believe the volume of stars and how clearly I could see the Milky Way compared with home. I got my priorities right immediately and set up the scope while my wife put the tent up in the dark and then fetched me a beer (wonderful woman). I panned around taking in my usual favourites and then I tried to look for something I hadn't seen yet, in this case the Andromeda galaxy. It was pretty easy to find and although just a white smudge it managed to captivate me for ages. Then I remembered that I bought my camera equipment to try out (for the first time). I attached the Pentax to the back of my scope and went to line back up with M31 (or is it M32. I can never remember) and hit a snag. I can only alter the declination of the scope a little bit with a zonking great big camera bolted to the back. My question is this. Do I have to go out and buy another adapter so I can attach said camera to the eyepiece or is there a cheaper way round my problem. Despite my problems I still managed to get some shots of the moon which I will send in as soon as I have them developed and scanned in. All the best Ian NeweyMike here: When a camera is mounted on the rear port of the ETX, the forks can get in the way in some orientations. Mounting in Polar mode can eliminate this (for some orientations). For more on adapters see the Accessory Reviews - Astrophotography.
Subject: Help with focusing Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 11:27:36 From: tmorson@att.com (MORSON, TREVOR, MGSVC) You are my last resort please help... My neighbor has the ETX70 telescope and I placed my Nikon N70 SLR via the t-mount and adaptor on the back of it for some photos of the moon. My problem is.. since only the camera body is mounted onto the back of the ETX70, how on earth do I focus the moon, so that it is sharp via the camera viewfinder? Please help.. what am I doing wrong? Trev Morson "There are two kinds of airplanes, those you fly and those that fly you. You must have a distinct understanding at the very start as to who is the boss". .. Ernest K Gann, (DC-3 Pilot).Mike here: Some cameras accept alternative viewscreens that help in low-light focusing. I don't know if your Nikon does that but you can check. Also, you might want to see the article "Focus Aid, Autostar Aligning Aid" on the Telescope Tech Tips page.
Subject: Piggyback mounts Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 2:19:36 From: mlewicki@ozemail.com.au (Martin Lewicki) I could not find a link to post queries to feedback so I'm using your email. I have noted that some of ETX90's have a piggy-back camera brackets in the photos. I can' t see any refernce to them though. I was thinking of making up something froma couple of hose clamps. There is what appears to be a commercial bracket shown in dca4.jpg in http://www.weasner.com/etx/photo.html Martin LewickiMike here: For piggyback mounts, see the Accessory Reviews --> Showcase Products page. Also, there are some homemade ones on the Helpful Information --> Astrophotography page.
Subject: 35mm camera's Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 17:09:26 From: joseph.powell6@verizon.net (Joseph Powell) I purchased a 35mm camera (Promaster) a little while ago but it is almost impossible to focus for astrophotography and the focusing screen is not removable. Do you have any suggestions on a reasonably priced 35mm that has a removable focusing screen. I heard there was one made especially for astrophotography but for the life of me I can't seem to locate it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you haven't checked out my web page recently and have time you should, there are a few links to your web page and page 10 has some pictures of your visit to AAI's Sperry observatory. Hope to hear from you soon! members.bellatlantic.net/~vze47hcu/ Joseph PowellMike here: As to a camera, check your local camera dealer for stuff in their "consignment bin" or "oldies but goodies box". A focusing aid (similar to the Kendrick QuikFocus) is discussed in the article "Focus Aid, Autostar Aligning Aid" on the Telescope Tech Tips page.
Subject: My little ETX Astronomy homepage Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 6:42:21 From: oldwexi@aon.at (Gerald Wechselberger) As i have put a selection of my ETX astronomy images and experiences with this scope on my new homepage (the page is 2 month old now and still in work) here the link: http://www.werbeagentur.org/oldwexi/ For those who are interested how to build themselves a Digital Camera connector the sublink is: www.werbeagentur.org/oldwexi/images/Digital%20Camera%20Mounts.htm Also for those who are interested in Deep Sky Imaging with the ETX and Standard Digital Camera the sublink is: www.werbeagentur.org/oldwexi/images/Deep%20Sky%20page_01.htm If you would put my link on your site to give your visitors an additional ETX page for browsing and maybe to find a few additional possibilities of using the ETX Telescope, i would be glad! I hope your 2nd mighty ETX Starparty was a success like your ETX site is a success since years! Hope you had better weather than we had here in Austria with the biggest international Telescopmeeting of Austria (ITT 2002) last weekend. Waiting fr your report and images Best Regards - ALOHA - Mit freundlichen Gren Gerald Wechselberger
Subject: Astrophotography Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 1:05:35 From: TCox@bendigohealth.org.au (Trevor Cox) Your web site ha been my bible since I bought an etx 90. I have just started some astrophotography and bought the meade t adapter and accesories for our canon slr. When iI have tried to take photos of the moon and venus the magnifacation is minimal is this normal . As I am new to this aspect am I missing something or is it normal. Hope someone can help TrevorMike here: When doing prime focus photography you get the same affect as using a telephoto lens of the same focal length as the telescope, or 1250mm in the case of the ETX-90. To increase magnification you need to try eyepiece projection or afocal photography.
Subject: Astrophotograpy Tips Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 1:17:44 From: mlewicki@ozemail.com.au (Martin Lewicki) I note that some of you EXT astrophotographers are implying that you are getting vibration-free images with the method of camera adapter at the focal plane and cable release arrangement. Well, after attaching my Olympus OM1 with the camera adapter for focal plane photography of the moon on my ETX90, I suspected that even with exposures of 1/60 or even 1/125 shutter vibration could be a problem. And it sure was. Every snap of the moon with this arrangement produced vibration-blurred images. Alternatively I tried the "hat-trick" method (hats off to Sam Brown;-)) whereby one uses a quick whisk of a card back and forth over the aperture of the telescope for a vibration-free exposure. This, needless to say, produced perfectly sharp images. However you don't have much exposure control with this method and only after some deft pep-talk to my local 1-hour photo-processor did I managed to get some decent prints of a full moon (calculated exposure 1/250!) with what was more like grossly over-exposed 1/8sec! hat-trick. So... how do you get vibration-free exposures with an ETX + camera adapter + focal plane + cable release? Martin LewickiMike here: I've always used the "hat trick" method with my SLR, even for piggyback exposures. Fortunately, it is not required for digital cameras.
Subject: video imaging Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 12:20:13 From: Dennym31@aol.com A low cost video imaging system for the ETX and other telescopes. I recently purchased a ccd black and white video camera with a lux rating of .0003 with a 12mm lens from www.supercircuits.com, a long with a C-1.25 adapter from www.scopetronix.com. When the camera is mounted in the eyepiece w/the adapter you can capture excellent images to a vcr,if you purchase the dazzle video creator 80 you can download the video images to your computer/laptop. Another way to use the camera is with the 12mm lens mounted on it,I is great for videos of the meteor showers. Thanks for the etx website.
Subject: Long Time Exposures with Meade ETX Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 7:54:18 From: handcrankedfilms@yahoo.com (Joe Taylor) Last spring I email-ed you about the possiblitlity of doing time-exposures with the Meade ETX system. I believe you told me that the longest exposures possible before the tracking system causes the image to blur is about 10 seconds. Does this sound right? If this is the case, are there any other telescopes out the that are comparably priced that can track precisely enough to get decent long exposures? If not, can you give me some leads on some higher end scopes systems that are capable of doing long time-exposures that might be in the $1000 to $1500 range? Thank You Joe T.Mike here: Long exposures are possible if you correct for tracking errors. This is true for most telescopes. You can do this with piggyback photography by looking through a high power or illuminated reticle eyepiece. For automated correction you will need something like a LX200 which has "periodic error correction" capability. However, the better the mount and polar alignment, the longer you can go before having to correct for tracking errors. That applies to the ETX line as well as other telescopes.
Subject: Re: Long Time Exposures with Meade ETX Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 7:54:53 From: handcrankedfilms@yahoo.com (Joe Taylor) Thank you for the information. You mention that the "better the mount, and polar alignment, the longer you can go before having to correct for tracking errors." How would you rate the Meade ETX line of scopes and mounts? Are they difficult or tricky to correct? Also, are there better scopes and mounts that might be better suited for this sort of application other than what Meade has to offer in their ETX line? I've been leaning towards the ETX 105 but I am also looking at Celestron's Scopes as well. Thanks again. Joe T.Mike here: The ETX line (nor most of NexStar line) is not ideally suited for long duration astrophotography. Yes, it can be done (with either line) with some practice and luck. There are (unfortunately, higher end) solutions that are best suited to this. But then you have to go to the LX200 systems (or comparable from other vendors) and you will need a sturdy mount, either a German Equatorial or one with a wedge (unless you want to use a field de-rotator).
Subject: ETX SPOTTING SCOPE Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 17:24:49 From: SCRABLR@aol.com I JUST GOT OFF THE PHONE WITH MEADE TECH. ASSISTANCE THEY TOLD ME THAT YOU MAYBE ABLE TO HELP WITH MY PROBLEM. I HAVE AN ETX 90 SPOTTING SCOPE AND I USE IT AS A TELEPHOTO LENS FOR WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY, USING A #64 T-ADAPTER. THE PROBLEM I'M HAVING IS IN THE PHOTOS THERE IS PARTIAL BLACK CIRCULAR RING IN ALL FOUR CORNERS, THE EDGES OF THE LENS. MEADE INFORMED ME THAT THIS IS NORMAL AND THAT WHAT IS NEEDED IS TO GET THE CAMERA CLOSER TO THE LENS, I DO NOT USE THE MINI- EXTENDER. DO YOU KNOW OF ANY AFTER MARKET CAMERA ADAPTER THAT IS AVAILABLE FOR THE ETX-90 THAT IS "SHORTER" AND WILL GET THE CAMERA "CLOSER" TO THE LENS OR ANY OTHER SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM I'M HAVING ?? THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN GIVE ME. EDMike here: This is called "vignetting" and is normal for some cameras. The Meade Camera Adapter is actually two pieces, connected. Have you tried just the single piece?
Subject: Re: ETX SPOTTING SCOPE Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 8:39:05 From: SCRABLR@aol.com THANKS FOR YOUR QUICK RESPONSE, AND YES I HAVE SEPERATED THE TWO PIECES AND I'M TALKING ABOUT THE SHORTER OF THE PIECES. I'M THINKING ABOUT MODIFING THIS PIECE ABOUT 3/8TH OF AN INCH,MAINTAINING THE SAME THREADS IF I CAN GET THE USE OF A METAL LATHE. DO YOU THINK IT WILL HELP? EDMike here: With no film in the camera, open the back and place a piece of tracing paper over the focal plane (with the shutter locked open). Mount the camera on the telescope and point the telescope at a brightly lit wall or the daytime sky. This will show the vignetting area. Remove the camera and adapter and just hold the camera over the port. Move in and out until you get the maximum distance from the port without vignetting. Measure that distance from the front of the camera to determine whether modifying the adapter will work.
Subject: processing contrasty images Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2002 18:50:48 From: brass@uconnvm.uconn.edu I havn't bothered you guys for a while now but have been a faithful "lurker" on your site. I am getting a bit more sophisticated now with my etx125 and have started imaging with my SAC 7 air cooled ccd imager. My question is; how do you process an image which has detail over a very wide range of intensities? For example, I have images of Jupiter and the 4 moons, which if I process one way--I get great planetary detail but no moons. But I can also process it to show the moons but the planetary image will be washed out. I have tried to use logarithmic density translations and other density curve transformations such as those in Berry and Burnell's book and software package "The Handbook of Astronomical Image processing" and "Photoshop" but nothing I have used handles the intensity range. Another example is M42, in which if I get nebula the stars in the trapizum become a big blur--but if I treat the image to get the stars nicely separated I get no nebula. The only hope I have now is learning about masks (??) in "Photoshop". Do you or any of the other "lurkers" or experts on your site have any suggestions? Though you do not intensively treat imaging on your site would you consider doing so? Alternatively, do you know of sites which do? Thank you for your time and helpfulness. Emory BraswellMike here: In Photoshop (and other apps) you can adjust the "levels". There are many ways to improve (or mess up) the image using Levels. In some apps you can also select the area you want to adjust instead of adjusting the entire image.
Subject: nubie question Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 9:32:40 From: snaturequest@earthlink.net (john scanlon) Thanks for your site, its great.I recently purchased a celestron nexstar 114 GT with the "Go To " software and I have a kodak dc 4800 3.1 MP digital camera.I ordered the camera adaptor for my camera(Haven't got it yet) my question is when the camera is attached to the telescope and focused on an object through the LCD screen and you press the shutter button it creates shake,can i utilize the 10 sec timer to prevent shake? John Scanlon Oceanside,CAMike here: Yes, using the self-timer is a great way to eliminate vibrations from pressing the shutter button.
Subject: question Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 8:15:37 From: danielii65@yahoo.com (D T) I have a question re: photography of the sun through an ETX 90 EC. I have a Thousand Oaks Type II solar filter. When I use the standard 26mm eyepiece the, sun looks awesome. When I view the sun through the rear of the scope with my camera using the T-Adapter, again the visual is awesome and so are the photos. The problem is when I use the Basic Camera Adapter along with half of the T-Adapter (in order to make it long enough to fit the entire length of the 26mm eyepiece for eyepiece projection photography), the sun appears dull through the camera's viewfinder and the photos are just as dull. Why? I am using a Canon EOS Elan II 35mm SLR. Why is there such a distortion of the "real" image? Thanks for your help. Dan TontoMike here: When using the eyepiece a LOT of light is being lost when projecting the image onto the film plane. I suspect that is what you are seeing.
Subject: Coolpix Sent: Thursday, December 5, 2002 5:30:27 From: Scott.A.Nicolson@btopenworld.com (Scott) I am just starting out using a telescope (ETX 70AT) and thought I would try a little astrophoto as well, I have a coolpix 4500 and am just wandering on the best settings for getting starts, I tried with Saturn the other day and just get a light smudge, as for stars I cant really see anything I used 8 sec at f/6.7 Exposure comp 2.0EV noise reduction was off focal length was 7.8mm. I am not to sure what all this means but I wee pointer in the right direction would be nice. When I look at the stars (deep sky) and then through my scopetronix WA18mm + camera I see nothing of the stars unless it is a planet even then it is not clearly visible. Took a lot of pictures but with no success so far, I am sure this is because I dont really no what I am doing PS I only have a small scope but living on one of the islands of Scotland gives me no light pollution after a certain time Regards ScottMike here: For Saturn you probably need a shorter exposure; try 1-2 seconds. Keep in mind that longer exposures through the eyepiece will be difficult as the guiding is not accurate enough to keep the image from moving around during the exposure. Also, when mounted in Alt/Az, the field will rotate as the telescope tracks the sky movement. As you can see on the ETX Site, astrophotographs can be done using the ETX-70AT so keep at it. I'd suggest starting with the Moon, which is now beginning to appear in the evening sky.
Subject: Focus Sent: Sunday, December 8, 2002 11:10:20 From: jamesewilkins@earthlink.net (Jim Wilkins) I took my first stab at a moon shot about 3 weeks ago with my Canon PowerShot S330, 26mm Plosel with the eyeguard on on my 90EC. Part of the image was focused, part wasn't. SHould I have taken off the eyeguard or turned it down? jimMike here: Sounds like the camera lens optical axis wasn't lined up with the eyepiece optical axis (that's where a Scopetronix Digi-T or one of their new digital camera eyepieces comes in handy). But for handheld afocal photography, the eyeguard may or may not be helpful. It can block stray light and be useful in aligning the optical axes. Be certain the camera is set for INFINITY and the eyepiece focused for your eye (which should be at infinity too).
And:
The Digi-T is on Santa's list.
Subject: Video camera Sent: Sunday, December 8, 2002 12:34:13 From: snaturequest@earthlink.net (john scanlon) I have an old video camera I would like to try to take some shots of the moon through my telescope. My question is , once you take some video how do you get single frames from your video tape? JohnMike here: You will need a computer and software and perhaps some special hardware that can allow the video to be brought into the computer. If you used a Macintosh it would be fairly straight forward, especially if your Mac was a recent model and you used a DV camcorder. You could use iMovie (included with recent Macs) to grab the video and then save (or just copy) individual frames. I'm sure this can also be done with Windows but I'm the wrong person to ask about it.
Subject: EXT125 photograpy adapter Sent: Sunday, December 8, 2002 16:35:34 From: Melmac1215@aol.com I was hoping you could help me find the correct adapter to attach a digital camera to the Meade ETX125. My husband would like one to take photographs of some of his viewings. Unfortunately, I do not know anything about this but would like to purchase one for a Christmas gift for him. If you could send me any helpful information as to what type of adapter would work and where I could purchase one, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank You, Melanie RileyMike here: Check the Accessory Reviews - Astrophotography page on my ETX Site. You'll likely want to get the Scopetronix Digi-T System.
Subject: ETX T-adapter Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 9:56:05 From: ThreeDirection@aol.com I have a ETX question hope you can help me. I have a ETX105EC, and after I had attach a t-adapter with a t-ring to my Nikon camera. How come I can't make it focus to the object? kimMike here: Depending upon the style of camera the focal plane may be too close to the telescope for it to focus on the film plane. The Meade camera adapter is two pieces; try using just one piece.
Subject: Quick question about ETX 90 Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 17:43:41 From: mmathosian@comcast.net (mark mathosian) I notice that when I connect my Nikon Coolpix 90 to the scope with a lens made by Scoptronix, the scope won't keep on target. it drops down and I end up having to manually hold the camera in place and shoot the picture. Has anyone else complained about thei problem with a Nikon 995? Thanks, mark Also, as a side note. Very dissapointed tonight. tried to view Saturn and the cloud cover was too thick. mmMike here: I know what you mean about the weather not cooperating. We have a break in the rains right now and it is very clear. Unfortunately the wind is really blowing. The telescope would be very unstable! As to the camera problem, the weight is the problem. This is a common problem with most telescopes. Don't overtighten the axis lock as you run the risk of damaging it. Making and attaching a counterweight will help. Some telescopes include counterweights.
Subject: hi...
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 7:34:03
From: jyoshi@thn.ne.jp (Jaques)
In the site of ScopeTronix an adapter exists Adaptaview U to be placed
in the body of the camera and in an eyepiece. Is it necessary to use a
T-ring?
thank you very much...
..Jaques
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Jaques Yoshiharu Y.
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Mike here: This question is best answered by Scopetronix. But I believe all their adapters do review a T-Ring that is matched to the adapter and the camera.
Subject: Tip Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 7:54:07 From: joerodricks@attbi.com (Joe Rodricks) My camera can take exposure from 1/100 to 15 secodns in length. I find that the 15 second expoures are only good for wide-field shots. Canon (at least me s200) has a built in fetaure that eliminates most noise in the 15 second exposure. Stacking 3 or more 15 second exposures can almost fully remove the noise. Do to telescope vibrations, I limit my eyepiece projection exposure times to 5 seconds. I also set the suto timer to 30 seconds. I then back far away and hold my breath. I find this to be an alternative to the hat trick, though both work well. When I have some more free time, I'll maky my tripod more stable and see if I can get a 15 second exposure to work under high magnifications.
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